Uncovering the Latest Greenwashing Effort from the international fast fashion industry

What Consumers Need To Know

Coining the Term 'Greenwashing'

In 1986, during a trip to Fiji, New York environmentalist Jay Westerveld noticed the hotel he was staying in had placed marketing materials in bathrooms asking customers to reuse their towels in order to “save the environment”.

Westerveld saw through the facade; the reuse initiative was more about the hotel reducing operating costs than genuine environmental advocacy. In an essay on the topic he first coined the term “greenwashing”

Today, greenwashing refers to practices that make organizations appear more environmentally friendly than they are. Despite exposure of such tactics, often by big name oil & gas companies, greenwashing remains rampant.

The latest suspect? The global fast-fashion industry’s methods for measuring and communicating the environmental impact of textiles.

The Illusion of Sustainability

The fast fashion industry has been successfully driving profits by creating shorter and shorter trend cycles. Fast fashion manipulates the consumer impulse to have the latest trend by focusing on creating cheap, petroleum based synthetics, wear-it-once garments vs. higher quality items that hold their style, quality, and performance over time.

For years, this low quality, low cost, approach has driven a frenzied consumption. According to a 2023 report from McKinsey & Company, since 2000 the clothing industry has doubled, people’s closets have grown by 60% and the global fast-fashion industry is worth more than 1.7 trillion dollars.

But as of late, a slow-fashion movement, supported by environmentalists, educated designers, and more environmentally-focused retailers has taken hold. Gen Z and millennials across the globe are looking beyond what’s in the mirror or on the price tag and reflecting on the choices they make. Including what is actually in each item. Is it earth friendly? And when it’s eventually thrown into a landfill, will it ever actually go away?

In the corporate boardrooms of international fast-fashion retailers executives realized that their carefully orchestrated fast fashion frenzy had a potential threat looming – educated consumers who were developing a conscience.

Enter the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC) a group of over 250 leading fashion retailers and their technology partner, Higg. They proposed that the Higg Index, a suite of tools used to assess the sustainability of materials used by the fashion industry, could be evolved into a trusted consumer-facing program. The Higg index was launched in 2021.

A Closer Look

At first glance, the Higg Index appeared to be a straightforward solution. However, officials at the Norwegian Consumer Authority (NCA) upon reviewing the data, were alarmed. The Index suggested that synthetic products, notorious for shedding microplastics and being non-biodegradable, were more environmentally friendly than natural fibers.

The red flags were undeniable:

Conflicted Interests:

Many founding members of the SAC and Higg Index were major fast-fashion brands, raising concerns about impartiality.

Lack of Transparency:

Crucial data underpinning the Index’s conclusions was not accessible, other data required a fee for full access.

Incomplete Life Cycle Analysis:

The Index’s assessment stopped at fabric production, ignoring the significant environmental impacts during the garment’s full lifecycle.

As a response, officials of the Norwegian government concluded that the HIgg Index was misleading for consumers, and an inaccurate measure of sustainability. They labeled it as “greenwashing,” effectively ending its use on products sold in Norway. However, what the Norwegians ended, was just the start of problems for the SCA, its retail members, and Higg.

The EU’s Eco Agenda and the Trickle Down for US Consumers

Several schemes and initiatives, like the Higg Index, have been criticized for misrepresenting the environmental impact of natural fibers. Let’s take a look at EU initiative, the Product Environment Footprint (PEF). Because the European Union (EU) continues to lead in environmental regulations, the influence of policies like the PEF often extends beyond its borders, impacting global markets, including the United States.

The PEF initiative was designed to measure the environmental impact of products across their entire life cycle, which in of itself is a good idea, and was built with good intentions. While the concept of providing consumers with transparent environmental information is commendable, the PEF methodology has significant flaws, particularly when applied to natural fibers like wool. The system tends to favor synthetic materials, potentially leading to misleading labels that could confuse even the most diligent consumers. For instance, under the current PEF framework for clothing, items made from polyester might be labeled as “green” or environmentally friendly, despite the fact that polyester is a synthetic material that never fully biodegrades and sheds millions of microplastics with each wash. Conversely, the same PEF labels could unjustly categorize natural fibers like wool and cotton as environmentally harmful, even though these materials are 100% biodegradable and do not contribute to microplastic pollution.

Americans must be vigilant and educated about proposed regulations like the PEF because these rules often set the precedent for legislation here in the U.S. The influence of European policy on American law is well-documented, particularly in the realms of fashion and sustainability. For example, the EU’s REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulation, which restricts the use of hazardous chemicals in textiles, inspired similar measures in states like California. Another positive initiative is the EU’s Circular Economy Action Plan, which emphasizes product lifecycle sustainability and has influenced New York’s proposed Fashion Act. The EU’s ban on single-use plastics has also led to comparable initiatives across the U.S.

However, not all European policies are beneficial; the methodology used in the PEF for textiles, for instance, is being criticized as misinformed greenwashing. These types of policies can mislead consumers and potentially harm industries by promoting standards that don’t accurately reflect sustainability. As the EU continues to push for stringent environmental regulations, it’s crucial that American consumers and businesses distinguish between genuinely beneficial initiatives and those that may be more about appearances than actual impact. Being informed and prepared for the potential impacts on our markets and industries is essential.

Fallout and Future

By June 2023, following the fallout from Norway’s findings on the credibility of sustainability claims, the creators of the Higg MSI halted their consumer-facing program and began removing the Higg Index seal from online platforms. Additionally, fast fashion retailer H&M faced a class-action lawsuit accusing it of using Higg data to deceive consumers with “false and misleading” environmental claims.

In December 2023 SAC CEO Amina Razvi stepped down. She had been with SAC since 2015, Following that news, in February 2024 The Sustainable Apparel Coalition announced that they were rebranding as Cascale.

Executive vice president Andrew Martin was quoted as saying, “I want to reassure people very strongly that we are not rebranding to [hide] there was a bit of controversy about SAC and the Higg Index.

Known for its commitment to sustainability, Patagonia has shown interest in the accurate representation of environmental impacts. While not always directly naming the PEF, Patagonia’s leadership has expressed concerns about sustainability metrics that might favor synthetic fibers over natural ones.

“Our focus has always been on using materials that are both durable and environmentally sound. Any framework that overlooks the full life cycle impact of these materials, particularly their end-of-life benefits like biodegradability, does a disservice to both the industry and consumers.”

Rose Marcario, former CEO of Patagonia

Lessons Learned

The misrepresentation that comes with flawed measuring systems poses a serious risk to consumers who are trying to make informed, eco-conscious purchasing decisions. If such distorted systems inform future “green” legislation, the result could be a market skewed in favor of synthetic, less sustainable materials at the expense of truly natural, eco-friendly options. As consumers, it’s crucial to remain aware of the issues and policy even when it’s happening overseas, and advocate for accurate, science-based assessments that truly reflect the environmental benefits of natural fibers.

Dr. Roy Kettlewell, a fiber chemist and spokesperson for the American Wool Council, emphasizes the importance of scrutinizing environmental claims. “Greenwashing is a powerful PR tool that has been used for years,” he warns, “and like synthetic garments in a landfill, it’s not going away anytime soon.”

Hungry for even more on this topic?

Check out this Vogue Buisness article which poses the question: Are synthetics receiving an easy ride at the expense of natural fibers in the European Union?

To learn about alternative labeling efforts...

To learn about alternative labeling efforts that are working to ensure that sustainability claims for textiles in the EU are fair and credible check out Make the Label Count, an international coalition of organizations representing a wide range of natural fiber producers and environmental groups. The American Wool Council is a proud funding partner of this campaign, supporting its mission to promote transparency and accuracy in textile labeling.

Are there policies in place to prevent greenwashing?

While some regulations exist, they vary by region. Consumers should stay informed about policy developments and support legislation that promotes accurate environmental claims.

How can I verify a brand's sustainability claims?

Research the brand’s supply chain, look for third-party certifications, and read reviews from trusted sources. Transparency and detailed information about production processes are key indicators.

What are the benefits of choosing natural fibers over synthetics?

Natural fibers like wool are biodegradable, renewable, and often have superior qualities such as breathability and durability, making them a more sustainable choice.